Hank Rearden
Well I finished restoring my champion forge No. 200 post drill a few months back. You can read the process by clicking here Post Drill Restoration. After having to step over it every time I need to get in the garage I finally decided to build a stand to mount it on. Interestingly enough it's movable and still mounted to a post.

Below is a rough idea penciled on paper about what I wanted to make.

base plans.jpg 

I had a piece of rectangular steel tubing that was 3/16" 1" x 3"x 6 feet long. I used it to make the legs. Some scrap angle iron to secure the legs and make a base and two old bed rails that go on the corners of the post for support.

base leg mark.jpg   base leg notch.jpg 

I started by cutting the tubing with a grinder into two 3" pieces. The measured 20" and notched the steel. I used my body weight to bend the first angle then tack welded it in place. Then I notched the second piece of tubing.

base leg.jpg 

Before I tacked the second piece in place a used three clamps and clamped it to the first piece to ensure symmetrical base supports. I measured 5-3/4" at the outside bends and made another notch that would create the back legs of the base and repeated the steps of clamping and tack welding.

  base legs tack.jpg 

base legs tacked.jpg 

Then I welded the two legs together with two pieces of angle iron 5-3/4' long. This made a pocket for the post to sit in.

base legs brace.jpg 

base leg square.jpg 

Because this is a crank drill I wanted it to be mounted in my power zone when cranking. So I stood beside the wall and marked it where my shoulder joint was. That was about 55". This is where I want the centerline for the crank handle to be. Because the Champion Forge Drill No. 200 is a big drill; 180lbs, drill weight alone, my post would have to be 55" plus another twenty to the top of the drill. Making the stand about 75" tall.

base drill stand.jpg 

I made this in my drive way. Not the most even place to weld steel when you want something square. Not only that, all of my welds were crap. I couldn't run a good bead at all. Maybe because I was about to run out of welding wire. Felt like the feed wasn't steady. Nothing a grinder can't hide. Then I'll run a better bead.

I still need to pick up a spool of wire and weld the four corner braces and tie them together and add a few gusset at the bottom. I'm also going to weld some tubing to the ends of the legs and add a nut and bolt to adjust for uneven floors.

Redo: I placed it on the garage floor and the front left leg was about 1/2 inch too high at the end. Couldn't go to sleep last night. So first thing this morning I cut it off and welded it back. Better!

I used 3/4 square I salvaged from a iron porch rail to tie the top of the post supports together. I had to do it with the wood in place. Got some burn but not too bad. It gives it a better finished look for me. I still need to clean it up and paint it, but that's for another time.

champion drill stand fab.jpg 

Drill mounted and leveled ready to use in the garage. Not it's final destination; it is a home for now. Spent some time cranking and it works like it was intended 100 plus years ago. 

champion drill stand.jpg 

Then my drill will be ready to mount and use.

Total cost about 26 bucks for the pressure treated wood plus some scrap metal.

After cranking on the drill for awhile I'm going to put a hurten on my speed bag. At least with my right arm. LOL

code[Maglio.gif]  Keep the fires burning hot!
2020 ABANA Conference in Sarasota New York. June 3rd. through June 6th. Plan now!
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