Mike Westbrook
Been scouting out and collecting "good junk" to one day build a power hammer and I finally have about enough to get started some I beam , pillow block bearings ,a few pulleys a two horse motor a pair of forklift forks two greasable guide trollys a few leaf springs and other goodies I've decided to build the anvil from 8 inch well casing with 2 inch pipe welded inside then filled with high strength morter so my dies will drop in and I can punch and drift Ive also decided to go with a slip belt for clutching on the slow side of the reduction set and I think I want the pivoting leaf spring style for hammer motion just due to the fact the forks cut and welded into the hammer will be around 100 lbs ........so I would love any input on blows per minute ( I'm thinking around 200 a little slow but it's going to be heavy ) any input on die retaining ,treadle style ,hammer adjustment ( was thinking 3 point top link ) or just any input of what you like about your hammer or would do different appreciate any ideas thanks guys .........Mike  IMG_20190225_223247832.jpg 
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Norseman C.B.
I'm still in the parts gathering stage myself and will be watching yer progress.............😎
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jmccustomknives
It might be a bit heavy on the hammer side.  Probably going to jump around.  Build it solid.  Look up the Clay Spence tire hammer, Raymond Head is building a version of it.  I think it's something close to a 50lb hammer and as beefy as it is it's still light for the throw and needs to be bolted down to a solid foundation.

Rule #10;  "I can make that" translates to; "I'm to cheap to buy it new."

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Mike Westbrook
Beefy it is I was planning on making the trolleys about (40 lbs a peice) part of the hammer but was daydreaming about that and decided that would add weight but be harder on everything so I think they will be part of the framework instead I also did some math on my anvil plans it should be about 240 maybe a little light for the job so I also have 100 lb gas cylinder that can't be recertified I may use but there again that will be almost to large as for the base it will be a three sided frame so it will set level and I have three 100 lb a peice front tractor weighted bumpers that will be bolted fast I can make it pretty beefy and just use my tractor to move it if needed maybe I should stop thinking and just start welding 
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jmccustomknives
To give you an idea of the ratios, a 25lb little giant weighs around 700lbs, a 50lb little giant is 1700lbs.  I'm not sure, but I think those tire hammers are over 400lbs.  I believe he lead or sand fills the "anvil" base to add the weight.

Rule #10;  "I can make that" translates to; "I'm to cheap to buy it new."

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Mike Westbrook
Well I started cutting some peices and I think I've decided on a design I'm using the old propane cylinder for the anvil base and i think it will work out great it should end up around 400 lbs with two one hundred pound weights on the sides I'm using the trolly tops for die holders and I drew a "rough sketch" and it's rough of what I'm thinking of will try to keep motors and Jack shafts as low as possible and build it as I go  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190227_224246546.jpg, Views: 10, Size: 139.53 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190227_222704220.jpg, Views: 13, Size: 130.75 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190227_233521497.jpg, Views: 12, Size: 361.83 KB
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WildernessForge
[QUOTE username=Mike Westbrook userid=6229164 postid=1307868172]Been scouting out and collecting "good junk" to one day build a power hammer and I finally have about enough to get started some I beam , pillow block bearings ,a few pulleys a two horse motor a pair of forklift forks two greasable guide trollys a few leaf springs and other goodies I've decided to build the anvil from 8 inch well casing with 2 inch pipe welded inside then filled with high strength morter so my dies will drop in and I can punch and drift Ive also decided to go with a slip belt for clutching on the slow side of the reduction set and I think I want the pivoting leaf spring style for hammer motion just due to the fact the forks cut and welded into the hammer will be around 100 lbs ........so I would love any input on blows per minute ( I'm thinking around 200 a little slow but it's going to be heavy ) any input on die retaining ,treadle style ,hammer adjustment ( was thinking 3 point top link ) or just any input of what you like about your hammer or would do different appreciate any ideas thanks guys .........Mike  UOTE]
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WildernessForge
I have my hammer running at 229 beats per minute and usually don't hammer at that speed. Still making dies for it out of 4140 tool steel. Maybe one more set of drawing dies will be enough; we'll see.  I built my hammer from Dusty plans. Have a one horse motor on it and very satisfied. Slip belt drive; all flat pulleys.     Glen
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Mike Westbrook
Question for you Glen did you take the time to re arch the leaf spring or just adapt it with the arch in it I can flatten them out it's just alot of work if it's not needed and about how heavy is your actual hammer I'm still a little unsure of these two parts thanks ..mike
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WildernessForge
I used a leaf spring from a 1992 Ford F150 and had it straighten at a machine shop with a large press. They took it apart and did it one leaf at a time. My hammer is around 50 pounds. Glen
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Mike Westbrook
Thanks for the input Glen I think the hammer will end up around 50 lbs as well not sure what forklift forks are but I went through a bandsaw blade on them and two of them will make up the hammer 4*3/12*24 I'm going to try something different for the spring I have a few soft springs from a Cherokee and I think I will alternate up and down springs mostly main leaves so that it ends up flat but has memory in both directions made some good progress got the anvil welded from two pieces of 1/2 inch thick c channel with the through bolt die holder on top inside the old tank to be filled with morter I also made up the spring pivot from 1200 lb trailer taper bearings and seals inside a made up hub with a 1 inch grade 8 bolt and nylock nut and I also got one side of the hammer guide built from c channel for ridgidity with the greasable trolly wheels installed I plan to box it in with a plate extending up past the spring end because it's right at forhead level ..happy weekend everyone ....mike Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190301_225522884.jpg, Views: 9, Size: 118.14 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190301_225242191.jpg, Views: 9, Size: 109.09 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190301_230731540.jpg, Views: 6, Size: 379.35 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190301_233404721.jpg, Views: 6, Size: 115.79 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190301_233440951.jpg, Views: 6, Size: 104.76 KB
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Mike Westbrook
Managed to get my quick change hammer dies made up now I can set the hammer head space and weld the guide to the main beam they are made from 4140 except the round die which came from a mini ex bucket pin I heated them in the forge then welded them fast and let them cool overnight in the forge to keep the welds from getting brittle the bolt holes are drilled slightly off center so the bolts need to be tapped in for a tight fit I'm sure I will make more in the future but these felt like the basics I would need two flat ,one half faced and one aggressive round drawing die  IMG_20190306_225330005.jpg  IMG_20190306_225522162.jpg 
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Mike Westbrook
Got some time this weekend to fill the anvil and finish the hammer closest numbers I can figure on the anvil should be just about 426 lbs the hammer came in a little heavy at just over 64 I was hoping for fifty but after the die holder spring guide and 5 lbs of 7018 welding rod it added up for the spring guide I took a peice of 4 inch scrap nylon roller and cut it in half bolted it into the guide with four 1/2 in  bolts with shims on the sides this should work well at wear resistance low drag and less noise than two metal rollers also started adding shafts and pulleys to the frame I think I will slow it down to 150 bpm due to the hammer weight  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190310_224538914.jpg, Views: 3, Size: 109.70 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190310_224712556.jpg, Views: 3, Size: 328.22 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190310_224617343.jpg, Views: 2, Size: 359.78 KB
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Mike Westbrook
Update on the hammer progress I've got the main frame pretty much the way I want it and all welded after plating the hammer top sides and adding the die it's now 79 lbs way heavier than I wanted but what do you do the frame turned out well very very solid the I beams are 4*8-1/4 inch and all the plating is 3/8 I wound up with a opening of around 8-10 inches and a throat of 24 inches basically just need to finish up the pulley systems brake and clutch at this point the hammer runs smoothly and the spring and pivot feel decent estimate on entire weight so far at least 1000 lbs it tweaks my engine crane when I move it ! I'm considering an adjustable coil spring on the back side by the ecentric arm as a means of lightning the hammer blows for smaller work I'll see once it's up and running have a good one folks  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190311_220334319.jpg, Views: 5, Size: 151.55 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190315_223857894.jpg, Views: 5, Size: 138.30 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190318_225036459.jpg, Views: 6, Size: 136.75 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190318_225049824.jpg, Views: 6, Size: 136.35 KB
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anvil
Looking good. Hindsight is wonderful, especially when it's a day late.

If the dies and anvil were set at a 30 degrees, you would not have the throat depth be a problem on long bars.
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Mike Westbrook
Your right anvil the dies are made from 5 inch c channel and 4140 bar I have a few feet of each left over I plan on making a set it was just easier for alignment to start with a square set at 24 inches deep and 5 wide at the back they won't have to be angled much it's coming together and like the dog who lost his tail it won't be long now !
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Mike Westbrook
Getting very close now I made the counter Ballance system I dreamed up this will hopefully park the hammer dies open when I let off and be a means of adjusting how hard the hammer hits at the lowest setting you can move the hammer almost effortlessly I also got most of the belt reduction and the actuator arm flywheel done and installed it's almost silent running without the the spring attached happy week everyone  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190322_173951588.jpg, Views: 4, Size: 149.94 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190322_174030130.jpg, Views: 5, Size: 148.28 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190324_224745408.jpg, Views: 5, Size: 119.43 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190324_224756332.jpg, Views: 4, Size: 116.55 KB
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Mike Westbrook
Hammers all done it's absolutely amazing I can't believe how controllable it is my counter Ballance works great the slip belt is perfect and the treddle turned out just right I banged out a pair of Ken's custom iron v bit tongs in about 15 minutes for the first project my wife got me the blanks for Christmas I couldn't be happier with the final result I uploaded a video to my Facebook ( South mountain metal works) by the way I named it Tex after my grandfather  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190328_224650029.jpg, Views: 5, Size: 138.82 KB
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Mike Westbrook
Tried out the half face die making a set of light flat jaw tongs from 3/4 round I cut off the Jack shafts this thing will get ahead of you quickly it's easy to create cold shuts cause it just keeps pounding it almost feels like cheating I do still go to the anvil for clean up I guess after I get some practice with it the work will be cleaner it's a little violent compared to hammer and anvil happy weekend to everyone  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190330_221931422.jpg, Views: 1, Size: 113.82 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190330_221750924.jpg, Views: 2, Size: 117.06 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190330_221623046.jpg, Views: 2, Size: 103.06 KB
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anvil
I have a 25# lil giant and a 25# treadle as well as my shop anvil. I've found that I use all three for many jobs and at least two for many more.  

No matter which hammer I use, I always finish up on my anvil. It's the only way for me to get the final finish I want. So, the treadle is for si gle blowdetails, the lil giant "the hogger", and my anvil for finish. 

Heres an example:
A simple tenon. I have a hot cut to define the mass for the tenon for my treadle. Then my tenoning tool to forge the tenon. And back to the anvil where my monkey tool sets the right angle between face and shaft.

If you figure the mass you need for the shaft, you can forge a tenon to length and no trimming needed. And all done in one heat.

You might wonder why I use so many tools for a simple tenon,,,  well, if you build a railing with 100 pickets, that's 200 tenons, and you can make money on them. For a basic rail, no details, no chamfered edges, I can bid against the best fab shops and advertise a hand forged mortise and tenon rail for about 10% more than the best fab shops.
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Mike Westbrook
I made a few adjustments and gained alot of control I raised the hammer gap not running to two inches and adjusted the treddle closer to the floor it does great single hits and is very controllable made a few railing brackets and the long wrap around one was almost all power hammer but still use the hammer and anvil alot to refine practice practice  Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190403_175646106.jpg, Views: 5, Size: 688.94 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190403_175717401.jpg, Views: 4, Size: 200.23 KB Click image for larger version - Name: IMG_20190403_175702518.jpg, Views: 4, Size: 208.06 KB
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